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Joined
6 mo. ago

  • I'm aware of Shelly and similar products. they are way overkill for this lamp - it's literally 1 LED and was powered from USB before I modified it to run from a 5V wall wart. I've ordered a few ESP32 boards to play with. I'm pretty confident I can power my lamp from one because one of the tutorials I found for new users was literally making a light switch. The tutorial used a LED for proof of concept and said to replace the LED with a relay to switch a real light.

  • I know I can go read, or experiment, but I'll ask anyway - does Immich gracefully handle changes to the external library after the initial import?

    Edit - after posting I realised I'm not talking about an external library, but I hope my question makes sense?

    I use it for my photos, but I have no specific needs - android app and desktop browser work for me. I'm looking to move my wife's photos over but she needs R/W access to the photos on desktop (probably via a SMB share) for Photoshop etc. Can Immich handle that?

  • yeah, this isn't a "real" salt lamp - the LED generates no heat. I have seen it dripping in particularly humid weather, so I won't be putting the esp32 (or whatever I end up doing) anywhere near it.

  • I have a bit of an aversion to smart plugs - they seem like a bit of a kludge. I totally understand there are lots of cases where there's no other option, but I don't think this is one. I'm also looking to learn about esp32 and I'm just sanity checking that this is a reasonable thing to do with one.

  • homeassistant @lemmy.world

    How to switch a 5V led lamp?

  • I was able to move to the country my wife grew up in - she, as a citizen, sponsored my visa. We moved from an area with relatively high real estate cost (sold for over $1mil - we had a mortgage, but also significant equity) to an area where it's much, much, cheaper (bought for about $100k currency corrected) so we could retire early - we're both ~60.

  • I know what futo is, but I don't understand what you're asking for here?

  • From my reading I believe the detection models (or whatever they're called) won't even install unless they find appropriate hardware?

    I've also discovered that the "AI" detection for person, vehicle and animal built into my camera works amazingly well and I'm now using that. I've been told I can use Frigate as a "dumb" PVR to receive, store and display the events detected by my camera, so I'm reading up on that option now. Seems overkill, but might be worth it.

  • I wasn't aware when I first posted this, but am now. I'm struggling to get it working though. My automation to record video for person, vehicle etc. events was working but as I read more I learned that, as you say, it should all happen in camera. So, I've turned off the automation and nothing is appearing in the Reolink media folder. I've been through and double checked that everything is turned on - that I can find. I'm wondering if I need to turn on FTP upload, or if the Reolink HA integration pretends to be a Reolink PVR? My camera is a RLC-520A, with no SD card, which, if I understand what I've read correctly, should have this capability.

    Edit: I've been reading and playing more. It seems the Reolink media folder is just populated with links to the recordings on the camera SD card - which I don't have. So, I've configured FTP upload to a folder accessible to my Jellyfin - I can now view the videos from my phone, PC and TV. That works for now - I'll keep playing.

  • I said my hardware was old and I meant it :-)

    Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-2600K CPU @ 3.40GHz

    I just don't see any reason to upgrade - I feel it's doing a lot for me and spends almost all the time at least 90% idle. It was nearer to 98% until I enabled Reolink on my Home Assistant VM - I'm running the highest quality stream from the camera, just to see how it performs.

  • homeassistant @lemmy.world

    Home Assistant as security camera PVR??

  • I've been using various versions of keepass for ever. Until recently I had the database on Google drive. It's now local and sync'd with syncthing. It's a bit "different", but once you get used to it, it works very well.

  • Does it work if you unplug and replug?

    In general, yes.

    If you hit a button other than power does it wake up, or does it say "no signal" or something?

    Yes.

    Does the laptop see it?

    I'm assuming not as it does not display on it. Next time it happens I'll see what xrandr says.

    Anything in any log?

    Nothing in Xorg.0.log and nothing that seems related in the journal. I'll keep journalctl --follow running and see if anything that I didn't pick as being related comes up next time it happens.

    Can you force a redetection from the laptop?

    Probably, but I don't know how.

    1. If you use the same USB port for this all the time, disable power saving on that port

    I use the same port all the time. I want power saving on the port. I like to just get up from my PC and have it go to sleep by itself and wake back up when I come and jiggle the mouse. It's working exactly as I would like maybe 90% of the time. Just sometimes the external monitor doesn't wake up.

    1. Make sure this isn't a PD port (this is a laptop design annoyance)

    It is a PD port, and it is powering the laptop. I'm not sure why this would be a problem? It's worked fine for 5-6 years with Windows and works 90% of the time now with Linux.

    1. Make sure your monitor's own power saving settings aren't the issue by disabling things like "deep sleep" or similar

    Again, I'm not sure how this could be a problem for the scenario I describe. The settings work fine 90% of the time. It's not even time related: sometimes I can come to it first thing in the morning, after it's been asleep all night, and it wakes perfectly; sometimes I can get up to go get a glass of water and come back and the external monitor won't wake up. It seems totally random.

  • Linux @lemmy.ml

    External monitor power management issues

  • homeassistant @lemmy.world

    Does anyone manage their air exchanger with Home Assistant?

  • Did you read my post, or just the subject? I'm not asking for help, just sharing an observation - just in case I got a bunch of "me too"s.

    I resolved my issue by unplugging and replugging my Zooz USB stick.

  • It seemed to be a hardware issue - the blue light on the controller was out until I removed and replaced it. It's too much of a coincidence for me though that I just happened to have this hardware issue at the time when the software that uses that hardware was being updated.

    I use Vendor/Product ID to access it:

     
        
    # lsusb
    Bus 002 Device 005: ID 10c4:ea60 Silicon Labs CP210x UART Bridge
    Bus 002 Device 004: ID 051d:0002 American Power Conversion Uninterruptible Power Supply
    Bus 002 Device 006: ID 1a86:55d4 QinHeng Electronics 800 Z-Wave Stick
    ...
    
    
    <hostdev mode='subsystem' type='usb' managed='yes'>
          <source>
            <vendor id='0x1a86'/>
            <product id='0x55d4'/>
          </source>
          <address type='usb' bus='0' port='1'/>
        </hostdev>
    
      
  • homeassistant @lemmy.world

    First ever upgrade issue - lost zwave controller

  • yeah, I need a TPU - my CPU is 5 generations too old

  • but not really sure what you are doing?

    I want to install one of these in a machine that doesn't have an M.2 slot.

  • homeassistant @lemmy.world

    PCIe M.2 adapters